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Portugal and Spain in 21 days
From Lisbon to Barcelona, by train, by car and on foot. The full itinerary, with times, what we booked and why we planned it that way.
- 21days
- 7stops
- 2countries
- 114guides
Photo coming soon
We planned this trip for months, day by day and almost hour by hour. We wanted to see a lot without spending the whole time rushing, so every day has a clear plan, a reason for the order of the stops and a plan B in case it rained or something was closed.
It’s all here: the 21 days, what we booked, where we slept and ate, how we got between cities and what we learned in each place. If you’re putting together your own trip, use it as is or take it as a starting point. We already made the hard decisions for you.
How we put it together
We flew from Houston to Lisbon and back home from Barcelona, so the route runs west to east without backtracking: Lisbon (3 nights), Porto (3), Seville (3), Granada (2, arriving by car through Ronda and Setenil), Madrid (3), Valencia (2) and Barcelona (3).
From each base we took day trips: Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais from Lisbon; the Douro Valley from Porto; Córdoba from Seville; Segovia and Toledo from Madrid.
How to read this trip
Start with the day by day if you want to follow the trip in order. If you already know which city you’re going to, jump to by city. And if you only care about one place, the guides have the practical stuff: how much time to give it, when to go, how to book and what to avoid.
- by train
- by plane
- by car
Don’t miss
- The Alhambra with a guide The Nasrid Palaces, the Alcazaba and the Generalife in a single morning, with our tickets secured from home.
- Sintra without driving Pena, Regaleira, Cabo da Roca and Cascais in one day, on a tour in Spanish that took care of the lines and the climbs.
- The Douro from Pinhão Terraced vineyards, a quinta with a tasting and the valley where port wine is born.
- Seville, Ronda, Setenil and Granada by road The only day we drove, and that is why we could stop in the villages the train never reaches.
- The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba A forest of red and white arches that looks like nothing else.
- The Sagrada Família inside We saved it for the second-to-last day, with an official guided visit and a fixed entry time.
Day by day
- 01 Sun, May 10 · Houston Houston to Lisbon, with ten hours in Newark Travel day: Houston to Newark before dawn, a ten-hour layover in Terminal C and the overnight flight to Lisbon. How we organized the layover and our plan against jet lag.
- 02 Mon, May 11 · Lisbon Arriving in Lisbon, from Chiado to Alfama We landed at 8:20 and walked Lisbon from top to bottom: a nata in Chiado, São Roque, the roofless Carmo, the Baixa, the Sé, Alfama and dinner at sunset at the Santa Luzia viewpoint.
- 03 Tue, May 12 · Lisbon Belém, the castle and a night of fado Our longest day in Lisbon: natas in Belém, the Jerónimos, the river walk to Belém Tower, bacalhau in Mouraria, São Jorge Castle, three viewpoints and dinner with fado in Alfama.
- 04 Wed, May 13 · Lisbon Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais A full day outside Lisbon on a tour in Spanish, with Pena Palace, Quinta da Regaleira, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, Cascais and our last sunset in Lisbon.
- 05 Thu, May 14 · Porto Lisbon to Porto by train, azulejos and our first sunset The Alfa Pendular from Lisbon to Porto, the azulejos at São Bento, francesinha, Clérigos Tower, the Arab Room at the Bolsa, the gilded Church of São Francisco and sunset at the Passeio das Virtudes.
- 06 Fri, May 15 · Porto Lello, the Bolhão, the Sé and a port tasting in Gaia Our fullest day in Porto: Livraria Lello at opening, the Bolhão Market, Santa Clara and the Sé, a walk across the Luís I Bridge, a tasting with food pairings at Graham's and an hour of fado.
- 07 Sat, May 16 · Porto The Douro Valley, Pinhão and our last night in Porto A day trip to the Douro Valley with a wine cooperative, lunch at a winery, a boat ride from Pinhão and the tiled train station. Back in town, one last sunset at Passeio das Virtudes and a farewell dinner in the Ribeira.
- 08 Sun, May 17 · Seville Porto to Seville, flamenco and sunset at Las Setas An early flight from Porto to Seville, a morning in Triana, a nap forced on us by the check-in time, flamenco without microphones and the sunset from Las Setas before dinner at the oldest bar in the city.
- 09 Mon, May 18 · Seville Santa Cruz early, the Cathedral, the Alcázar and tapas in Triana Santa Cruz before ten, Casa de Pilatos without the crowds, the Cathedral, the Giralda and the Alcázar on a Spanish-language tour, and a tapas crawl through Triana in three bars.
- 10 Tue, May 19 · Seville Córdoba in a day and our last dinner in Seville A day trip to Córdoba with a Spanish-speaking guide: the Mosque-Cathedral, the Jewish Quarter and the Synagogue. Back in Seville, a farewell dinner at Espacio Eslava.
- 11 Wed, May 20 · Granada Ronda, Setenil and our first afternoon in Granada A one-way rental car from Seville, Ronda's Puente Nuevo at eight in the morning, the streets under the rock in Setenil and the Royal Chapel for free because it was Wednesday in Granada.
- 12 Thu, May 21 · Granada The Alhambra, the Albaicín and a zambra in an old cistern Our big day in Granada: the Alhambra with a guide at 9:00, a garden almost nobody visits, tapas you get to choose, the climb through the Albaicín to San Nicolás, a flamenco zambra and dinner facing the lit-up Alhambra.
- 13 Fri, May 22 · Madrid Train to Madrid, suckling pig at Botín and sunset at Debod The 6:00 AVE from Granada, a first walk through the Madrid of the Austrias, suckling pig at Botín without a reservation, the Gran Vía, sunset at the Temple of Debod and Cibeles lit up at night.
- 14 Sat, May 23 · Madrid The Royal Palace, a cocido and the Prado Madrid's big culture day: churros at San Ginés, a guided tour of the Royal Palace in Spanish, cocido at La Bola, the Prado in the afternoon, the roses in Retiro Park and tapas on the Cava Baja.
- 15 Sun, May 24 · Madrid Segovia and Toledo in a single day A twelve-hour day trip from Madrid: the Roman aqueduct and the Alcázar of Segovia in the morning, Toledo's Primate Cathedral and Jewish quarter in the afternoon, on a tour in Spanish.
- 16 Mon, May 25 · Valencia Arriving in Valencia, rice in El Carmen and sunset at Serranos A last breakfast in Madrid, the AVE to Valencia and an afternoon we reworked that same day: rice in El Carmen, the cathedral and the Miguelete, horchata, clochinas and sunset facing the Torres de Serranos.
- 17 Tue, May 26 · Valencia Calatrava, the Turia, the market and paella at La Pepica Valencia's big day: the City of Arts and Sciences early, the Turia garden on foot, the Central Market and La Lonja, paella by the sea at La Pepica, El Cabanyal and agua de Valencia at Café Madrid.
- 18 Wed, May 27 · Barcelona Euromed to Barcelona, the Gothic Quarter, El Born and the bar at Cal Pep A train along the coast from Valencia to Barcelona, a Catalan lunch in a 1935 bodega, a walk through Roman Barcino and the Gothic Quarter, El Born as evening falls and dinner at the bar at Cal Pep.
- 19 Thu, May 28 · Barcelona Gaudí day, from Park Güell to Casa Batlló Three Gaudí buildings from north to south: Park Güell at 9:30, Gràcia on foot, La Pedrera at midday, tapas at Cervecería Catalana, Casa Batlló at 15:00 and the evening in El Born.
- 20 Fri, May 29 · Barcelona Sagrada Família, Picasso and the farewell dinner The last full day: the Sagrada Família with a guided tour in Spanish and a tower, Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, montaditos at Quimet i Quimet, the Picasso Museum and the farewell dinner at 7 Portes.
- 21 Sat, May 30 · Barcelona Back to Houston A day of flights: a taxi at 3:25 and three planes, from Barcelona to Frankfurt, Chicago and Houston, with Schengen exit control in Frankfurt and US customs in Chicago.
By city
Portugal
Lisbon
Portugal
Porto
Spain
Seville
Spain
Granada
Spain
Madrid
Spain
Valencia
Guides from this trip
- Lisbon A Ginjinha Yes, it's worth it as a five-minute ritual: a drink from 1840 for about €1.50. Don't oversell it to yourself; it's sweet, quick and almost everyone around you is a tourist.
- Granada Albaicín It's the other half of Granada and you can't skip it. Go up after 16:00, take your time, and don't stop at the photo from San Nicolás.
- Segovia Alcázar of Segovia The outside, perched on the rock, is one of the prettiest in Europe. Inside, almost everything is a 19th-century reconstruction, but the Hall of Kings and the view from the tower make it worth it.
- Granada Alhambra It's one of the few buildings in Europe with no substitute. What disappoints is how you have to visit it: go early, with your passport, with official tickets and with at least three hours.
- Madrid Almudena Cathedral Worth a 25- to 45-minute stop after the palace, especially for the crypt. Don't expect the patina of Toledo or Seville: it was finished in 1993.
- Segovia Aqueduct of Segovia Worth every minute, but it isn't a museum: it's a Roman structure in the middle of the city. Walk along it and climb up to the Postigo, don't stop at the photo from the Azoguejo.
- Barcelona Barcelona Cathedral Worth it above all for the cloister and its geese, one of the most distinctive in Europe. If you want the purest, most moving Gothic, Santa Maria del Mar, ten minutes away, wins.
- Lisbon Belém Tower From the outside it is the image of Lisbon and worth the stop; the inside is optional. In May 2026 it was still closed and under scaffolding, so check before you go.
- Barcelona Block of Discord (Manzana de la Discordia) Worth 15 minutes before or after Casa Batlló: three rival architects on a single block. You enjoy it from the opposite sidewalk, and it's free.
- Madrid Bodega de la Ardosa Yes, it's worth it: an 1892 tavern that still works as one. Order vermouth, salmorejo and tortilla, and don't expect attentive service or a seat.
- Seville Bodega Santa Cruz "Las Columnas" Worth it for a quick standing tapa, two minutes from the Cathedral at neighborhood prices. It's loud and brusque, and the chalk tab is yours to keep an eye on.
- Granada Bodegas Castañeda It's a famous bar and a neighborhood bar at the same time. To learn how Granada's free tapas work, it's the right place: standing at the bar with a vermouth.
- Sintra Cabo da Roca As a 30-minute stop on a tour that already passes by, yes. As its own two-hour bus trip from Lisbon, it's more debatable: it's cliffs, a lighthouse and wind.
- Porto Café Santiago Yes, it's worth it for your first francesinha: according to locals it isn't the best in Porto, but it's the most representative. Get there early and come hungry.
- Vila Nova de Gaia Cais de Gaia Worth it for the view of the Ribeira and for how flat it is. It's a one-hour stroll, not a place to eat: many waterfront restaurants are pricey for what they serve.
- Granada Calle Calderería Nueva It's a street for tourists and also the coolest street in Granada. It's worth one tea house and a 25-minute stroll; skip the shopping.
- Porto Capela das Almas Worth it as a 10 to 15 minute stop for the facade. The interior is plain; what you come to see is outside.
- Granada Carmen de los Mártires It's the best free stop after the Alhambra, and almost nobody visits. Go on a weekday before 14:00 and give it at least half an hour.
- Porto Carmo and Carmelitas Churches Yes, it's worth it, especially from the outside: the azulejo panel is free to see from the sidewalk, and both naves are free too. The paid tour is worth it if you want to go inside the hidden house.
- Lisbon Carmo Convent Worth it, especially with the Lisboa Card discount. It's a short visit: come for the nave open to the sky, not for a big museum.
- Barcelona Casa Batlló It's the most striking of Gaudí's houses, and the architecture justifies the high price. We bought Platinum for the flexibility; the immersive rooms aren't necessary.
- Seville Casa de Pilatos Yes, it's worth it, with the ground-floor ticket and in the morning. Compared with the Alcázar it comes out behind; seen as a noble house that's still lived in, it's one of the best things in Seville.
- Seville Casa del Flamenco Worth it if you want flamenco up close and unamplified. It's one tight hour, no dinner, on wooden chairs; if you want a long show with food, this isn't it.
- Barcelona Casa Milà (La Pedrera) It's the most interesting of Gaudí's houses as architecture and the least spectacular at first sight. If you're after color, Casa Batlló is more striking; if you're into ideas, this is the one for you.
- Valencia Central Market of Valencia Yes, it's worth it, for the building and for the real market that starts after the first 30 meters. Go in the morning and use it for snacking, not for lunch.
- Barcelona Cervecería Catalana It deserves its reputation: classic Catalan tapas, well made, fast and fairly priced. It's not a discovery or a quiet place, and the time you arrive decides how long you wait.
- Madrid Chocolatería San Ginés Worth it early in the morning: thick chocolate, the 1894 room and no line. At midday or in the small hours on weekends it's a different place.
- Porto Church of São Francisco If you're only going into one church in Porto, make it this one. On the outside it's plain; on the inside, almost everything is carved and gilded wood.
- Seville Churrería Los Especiales Worth it as an easy breakfast by the river, not as a pilgrimage. The churros are fried to order and the chocolate is thick, but local blogs rank other churrerías ahead of it.
- Valencia City of Arts and Sciences Worth it as an architecture walk, free and before 10:30. The paid interiors are optional, and the Oceanogràfic needs half a day on its own.
- Porto Clérigos Tower For a first time in Porto, yes: it is the only 360-degree view of the center. If you already know the city, the Miradouro da Vitória gives you a good part of the view for free.
- Porto Conga, Casa das Bifanas Worth it for one thing, the bifana. It's a 15-minute stop standing at the counter: fast, loud and cheap.
- Seville Convent of San Leandro Worth it for the ritual more than the sweets. It takes ten minutes and a few euros, but the yemas are very sweet and you see nothing of the convent inside.
- Córdoba Córdoba Synagogue Yes, it's worth it, with context. It's one small room: without knowing what you're looking at, it seems like a white box; with a guide or some reading beforehand, it's one of the most moving places in Córdoba.
- Granada Corral del Carbón Ten free minutes and one of the stops in central Granada that gives back the most per minute. Don't give it more: the arch and the courtyard are the visit.
- Pinhão Douro River Cruise from Pinhão Yes, it's worth it: from the water the terraces show their real size. One hour is the right dose inside a day tour.
- Pinhão Douro Valley In one day, a small-group tour with a boat ride from Pinhão is the most practical way to see it. If you can stay two nights in the valley, even better.
- Granada El Bañuelo It's worth it, and almost everyone walks past. It's 15 minutes and €5, but go in knowing what to look for, because there's almost no explanation inside.
- Barcelona El Born Worth walking slowly: within 200 meters you get the Gothic basilica, the 1714 memorial and the old jousting ground. Use it to stroll and have a drink, not to eat at the terraces.
- Valencia El Cabanyal Yes, it's worth it: there's no other neighborhood like it in Spain, with a different tiled facade on every house. It's a living neighborhood, not a museum, so walk it slowly and quietly.
- Seville El Rinconcillo Worth it, for the room and the stews. Its fame runs a little ahead of the kitchen: order meat and stews, not fish, and eat at the bar.
- Barcelona El Xampanyet Worth it for the house cava, the anchovies and a tiled room that has barely changed since 1929. Order the simple things and ask the price of everything else.
- Barcelona Els Quatre Gats Worth it for a coffee in the Modernista room where Picasso exhibited. As a restaurant it has a reputation for being expensive for what it serves; go for 25 minutes, not for a meal.
- Seville Espacio Eslava Yes, it's worth it, and a good pick for a last dinner in Seville. The kitchen has restaurant technique at bar prices; the only condition is arriving at 20:00 on the dot.
- Barcelona Gothic Quarter Worth walking with a route in hand. The Roman parts are real, some of the "Gothic" is a 1920s reconstruction, and knowing which is which makes the walk much better.
- Barcelona Gràcia Worth it as a walk down after Park Güell: neighborhood squares, small streets and fewer tourists than downtown. Don't expect an undiscovered neighborhood; plenty of people do the same thing.
- Vila Nova de Gaia Graham's Port Lodge If you're doing just one port tasting, make it here and with pairings. The basic tier is a lot like the cheap waterfront tastings; from €40 up it's a different thing.
- Madrid Gran Vía Worth it as a 30- to 45-minute architecture walk with your eyes up. The shops are the same chains as in any capital.
- Valencia Horchatería Santa Catalina Yes, it's worth it for a first horchata, for the tiles and nearly two centuries in the same spot. You pay more than in Alboraya; if you become a fan, have your next one there.
- Porto Igreja de Santa Clara Yes, it's worth it, especially if you've already seen São Francisco or don't have time for both. It's smaller, gets far fewer visitors and the gold covers every inch.
- Lisbon Jerónimos Monastery It's the most important building in Lisbon and worth every minute, but only if you get there at opening. At midday in May, the cloister line can run over an hour in the sun.
- Córdoba Jewish Quarter of Córdoba Yes, it's worth it, but get off the main street. Calle Judíos and the Calleja de las Flores fill up with tour groups; ten minutes in the side alleys gives you the neighborhood back.
- Barcelona La Boqueria Worth ten minutes for the building and the back of the market. For eating or shopping, the stalls by the entrance are the worst option in the area.
- Valencia La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) Yes: for €2 you see the best Gothic civic building in Spain. It's small, so arrive knowing what to look for and give it half an hour.
- Valencia La Pepica Yes, it's worth it for the history, the dining room and the sea 50 meters away, as long as you order paella valenciana. If you care more about the perfect paella than the place, go to Casa Carmela or El Palmar.
- Valencia La Pilareta (Bar Pilar) Yes, it's worth it, especially from April to August, when clochinas are in season. It's a bar for 30–45 minutes at the counter, not for a long dinner.
- Granada La Riviera It's no locals-only secret, but it does its thing very well: you choose the tapa, and with two or three rounds you have a full Granada lunch.
- Seville Las Golondrinas Worth it, for the pork tenderloin tips and the tile-covered room. Get there early, order in Spanish and don't expect the prices from old blogs.
- Porto Livraria Lello Worth it at 9:00 and as a 20-minute monument, not as a bookstore to browse. By mid-morning it turns into a shoulder-to-shoulder line.
- Valencia Malvarrosa Beach Yes, as the finale to the paella: a few minutes with your feet in the water. For a full beach day, Patacona, to the north, is calmer.
- Lisbon Manteigaria Yes, it's worth it, especially as your first breakfast in Lisbon: a warm nata for €1.50, standing at the counter, in under five minutes. Don't expect a café where you sit down.
- Seville Mercado de Triana Worth it for a standing breakfast and a short loop. It's half touristy and half neighborhood: touristy at the bridge entrance, the real thing toward the back.
- Porto Mercado do Bolhão Yes, it's worth it on a weekday morning, for the building and the stalls downstairs. Upstairs feels more like a food court than a market.
- Seville Metropol Parasol (Las Setas) Worth it at sunset, with time to stay for the Aurora lights. At midday it's an expensive half-hour viewpoint.
- Lisbon Miradouro da Graça Yes, it's worth it: it's free, it has shade and it gives you the best photo of the castle with the city behind it. Come mid-afternoon to get a table at the kiosk; at sunset it fills up.
- Porto Miradouro da Vitória Yes, it's worth it: ten minutes, free and on the way if you're walking down from the Clérigos toward the Ribeira. It's small and has nothing but the view, so come to look, not to linger.
- Lisbon Monument to the Discoveries Worth going up if you have the Lisboa Card, which covers it fully: from the top the compass rose reads like a map. Without the card, the exterior and the rose, which are free, tell you almost everything.
- Córdoba Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba Worth every minute of the trip from Seville. With a guide, the layers of history make sense; without context, it's easy to get lost among the arches without knowing what you're looking at.
- Lisbon Noobai Café Yes, it's worth it for the view and the sunset, not for the food. Go for wine and a cheese board, get there early and don't expect fast service.
- Porto Palácio da Bolsa Yes, it's worth it, above all for the Salão Árabe. The tour is short and sometimes rushed, so ask for Spanish and arrive with time to spare.
- Barcelona Park Güell Worth it on the first morning slot. By 10:30 the dragon stairway is already a selfie line.
- Porto Passeio das Virtudes Yes, it's worth it, as the best free sunset in the city. It's not a quiet, romantic lookout: it's Porto's public living room, with wine, music and lots of people.
- Lisbon Pastéis de Belém Yes, it's worth it for the history and the setting next to the Jerónimos, and the nata is very good. Don't expect a revelation: in blind tastings, other Lisbon bakeries now beat it.
- Seville Patio de Banderas Worth it as a three-minute stop on the way to the Alcázar or the Cathedral. It's small and there's nothing to visit inside, but the Giralda framed by orange trees is one of the best views downtown.
- Sintra Pena Palace Yes, it's worth it, but only early and on a weekday. At midday in high season it turns into a two-hour line.
- Barcelona Picasso Museum Barcelona If you come looking for Cubist Picasso, you'll be disappointed. If you want to see how a teenager learned to paint perfectly before breaking the rules, this is the place.
- Pinhão Pinhão Railway Station Yes, it's worth it, and it's 15 free minutes. It's a small station that works as an open-air gallery; the panels on the platform side are the best.
- Barcelona Plaça de Sant Felip Neri Worth it, even more if you arrive knowing what happened on January 30, 1938. It's a beautiful square and a memorial, both at once.
- Valencia Plaza de la Virgen Yes, it's worth it, and it's free: it's the most beautiful square in Valencia. Come for the buildings and the history, not the terraces, which charge you for the view.
- Madrid Plaza de Oriente Worth it first thing, before you go into the palace. It's small, takes 25 minutes, and around 9:30 it has the best light in Madrid on the facade.
- Granada Plaza Larga and the Arco de las Pesas If San Nicolás is the tourists' Albaicín, Plaza Larga is the residents'. Fifteen minutes is enough, and don't leave without looking up inside the arch.
- Madrid Plaza Mayor of Madrid Worth it as a 20- to 30-minute architecture stop on your way somewhere else. Not for sitting down to eat on its terraces.
- Porto Postigo do Carvão A simple, no-fuss fish dinner right in the Ribeira, at a reasonable price for the area. Book ahead: without a reservation the waits are long.
- Madrid Prado Museum One of the three great painting museums in the world. With a timed ticket and a fixed route, in two and a half hours you see the essentials without wearing yourself out.
- Ronda Puente Nuevo It earns its reputation, but only if you get there before 10:00. From 11:00 in high season, the viewpoint photo has a line.
- Barcelona Quimet i Quimet Worth it if you like top-quality conservas and can handle standing in a tiny, packed room. Cold montaditos assembled at the bar, no kitchen, and a cheap house vermouth.
- Sintra Quinta da Regaleira For many people it is the best thing in Sintra, better than Pena. The only problem is the line at the bottom of the well: head straight there as soon as you get in.
- Madrid Retiro Park and La Rosaleda La Rosaleda is small and free, and in the second half of May it is the best twenty-minute break after the Prado.
- Porto Ribeira Yes, it's worth it for the view, at golden hour and on foot. It's more stage set than living neighborhood: don't eat on the quay and watch your bag.
- Córdoba Roman Bridge of Córdoba Yes, it's worth it: it's free, it takes ten minutes to cross and it gives you the Córdoba postcard. Don't expect Roman stone; almost all of it is Islamic-era rebuilding and modern restoration.
- Sintra Romaria de Baco Yes, it's worth it for lunch in Sintra without falling for the tourist menus on the square. It's home-style Portuguese cooking in a small dining room; get there early, because at peak hours the kitchen slows down.
- Ronda Ronda Worth it, but early. Before 10:00 it is a mountain town; at midday in high season it is a photo line at the viewpoint.
- Seville Royal Alcázar of Seville It is the biggest visit in Seville and it pays off more with a guide. If you can, go to Casa de Pilatos first: the other way around, Pilatos feels small.
- Granada Royal Chapel of Granada Small, quiet and well worth it. It takes 20 or 30 minutes, and on Wednesday afternoons it costs nothing if you book.
- Madrid Royal Palace of Madrid Worth it for the Throne Room and the Porcelain Room. If you speak Spanish, the guided tour in Spanish makes up for the fixed pace.
- Lisbon Rua Augusta Arch Yes, it's worth it, especially with the Lisboa Card: twenty minutes and one of the best views in the center, standing among the statues. Mind the spiral staircase if tight spaces bother you.
- Barcelona Sagrada Família Outside it is a mess of construction, lines and pickpockets; inside it is something else. Go early, with a guide, and do not settle for the photo of the facade.
- Granada San Agustín Market It's a small, real market, not a spectacle. It's worth ten minutes downstairs to take home Trevélez ham and goat cheese from the sierra.
- Barcelona Sant Pau Recinte Modernista It's the best companion to the Sagrada Família and it's a ten-minute walk away. In 45 minutes you see the essentials, without the Gaudí crowds.
- Seville Santa Cruz Quarter Before ten it's one of the prettiest parts of Seville; from eleven to six it's a line of groups with headsets. The time of day decides everything.
- Porto São Bento Station Yes, it's worth it, and it's free. But give it 20 minutes and read the walls: the quick photo of the ceiling is the least of it.
- Lisbon São Jorge Castle With the Lisboa Card it's a clear yes: the best view of Lisbon and walls you can walk. Without the card, €17 is steep if you already have free viewpoints in your plan.
- Lisbon São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint Yes, it's worth it, and best as the first viewpoint of your trip: the tile map teaches you to read the city in five minutes. Come in the morning; for watching the sun go down, this isn't the place.
- Porto Sé do Porto Yes, it's worth it, but with the cloister ticket. The nave alone is austere and takes ten minutes; the best parts are the cloister, the silver altar and the terrace.
- Segovia Segovia Cathedral Worth it for its proportions and for the cloister rescued from the old cathedral. If you arrive expecting Toledo's drama, it will feel restrained.
- Setenil de las Bodegas Setenil de las Bodegas It is a one-trick town, but the trick is very good. Worth it before 10:30 or after 16:30; at midday the streets cannot cope.
- Seville Seville Cathedral and the Giralda Yes, it's worth it, and with a guide it makes a lot more sense. Combining it with the Alcázar on one tour saves you lines, though some reviewers feel a few stops are too short.
- Madrid Taberna La Bola Worth it for the cocido in its own clay pot and the timeless dining room. Order just the à la carte cocido: everything else is where the bill climbs.
- Barcelona Temple d'August Worth it. It's free, two minutes from the cathedral, and almost everyone walks right past. Just don't expect a whole temple: it's four columns in a small courtyard.
- Madrid Temple of Debod Worth it for the sunset and the outside, which are free. The interior is small, and on top of that it has been closed since March 2026.
- Toledo Toledo Worth it, as long as you know that from 11:00 to 17:00 it is full of day trips. The cathedral is the one thing not to skip; the sword street, you can.
- Valencia Turia Garden Yes, it's worth it, and it's free: it's the best way to get from the City of Arts and Sciences to the center. Think of it as a walk that links places, not as a monument.
- Valencia Valencia Cathedral and the Miguelete Yes, it's worth it: for about €13 you get the Holy Chalice, two Goyas, frescoes that were hidden for 330 years and the best view of Valencia. Climb the Miguelete first.
- Lisbon Zé da Mouraria Yes, it's worth it if you come prepared: cash, patience and a single plate for two. It's honest, generous tasca food; the service is fast and curt, and sometimes the cod comes out salty.
Where we stayed
- Solar dos Poetas Chiado, Lisbon · 3 nights
Chiado sits in the middle of everything: Bairro Alto above, the Baixa below, Alfama 15 minutes on foot and Cais do Sodré station, with the train to Belém, 10 minutes away.
Day 2 - Ribeira Stay Apartments Miragaia, Porto · 3 nights
Miragaia is right next to the Ribeira but quieter. The whole center is walkable, the Passeio das Virtudes and the fado are around the corner, and the apartment has a kitchen and a washing machine. Stairs only, no elevator.
Day 5 - Triana Boutique (Hommyhome) Triana, Seville · 3 nights
Triana is a real neighborhood, with tapas bars and a market, and it's one bridge from the center. From here we did everything on foot, including the pickup for the Córdoba tour.
Day 8 - Shine Albayzín Lower Albaicín, Granada · 2 nights
Next to the Darro River, two minutes from the Paseo de los Tristes and the next day's flamenco, and five from Plaza Nueva. You can walk the whole Albaicín and the center.
Day 11 - BYPILLOW The Citadel Ópera, Madrid · 3 nights
Two minutes from the Plaza de Oriente and the Royal Palace, which we visited the next day, and within walking distance of the Plaza Mayor and Sol. Ask for an interior room: the street can be noisy.
Day 13 - NH Collection Valencia Colón Ensanche, Valencia · 2 nights
Ten minutes by taxi from the AVE station, fifteen on foot from the historic center and five from the Estació del Nord, where our train to Barcelona left from.
Day 16 - Hotel Suizo Gothic Quarter, Barcelona · 3 nights
On the edge of the Gothic Quarter and El Born, next to the Jaume I metro stop (L4). The whole route this day started and ended on foot.
Day 18
Where we ate
- United Club C123 Newark · A sandwich from the buffet (they heat it to order), salad and a hot dish Day 1
- United Club C123 Newark · Soup, salad and a hot dish; one glass of wine at most Day 1
- Manteigaria Lisbon · Pastel de nata and galão Day 2
- A Ginjinha Lisbon · Ginjinha "com elas" Day 2
- Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau Lisbon · Pastel de bacalhau with Serra da Estrela cheese Day 2
- Nova Pombalina Lisbon · Bifana, sandes de leitão and fresh orange juice Day 2
- Farol de Santa Luzia Lisbon · Grilled fish of the day, octopus salad or cataplana for two, with vinho verde Day 2
- Pastéis de Belém Lisbon · Pastéis de nata with cinnamon and powdered sugar, and a bica Day 3
- Zé da Mouraria Lisbon · Bacalhau à minhota with house wine Day 3
- Portas do Sol kiosk Lisbon · Vinho verde by the glass or a Sagres Day 3
- Mesa de Frades Lisbon · House menu with petiscos, drinks included Day 3
- Casa Piriquita Sintra · Travesseiros and queijadas de Sintra Day 4
- Romaria de Baco Sintra · Dish of the day Day 4
- Noobai Café Lisbon · Cheese board and vinho verde Day 4
- Café Santiago Porto · Francesinha Santiago with its fries and um fino (draft beer) Day 5
- Adega de São Nicolau Porto · Caldo verde, bacalhau à Narcisa or vitela de Arouca, and an Alvarinho vinho verde Day 5
- Padaria Ribeiro Porto · A coffee, a pastel de nata and a pastel de Chaves, standing at the counter Day 6
- Conga Porto · Bifana and um fino Day 6
- Graham's Port Lodge Vila Nova de Gaia · LBV with chocolate, Quinta dos Malvedos with sheep's cheese and 20-year Tawny with pastel de nata Day 6
- Taberna Santo António Porto · Salt cod, octopus, grilled fish of the day or arroz de marisco, with the house vinho verde or Douro red Day 6
- Lunch at a Douro winery Douro Valley · Whatever the house serves: açorda, grilled meats, local cheeses and Douro wines Day 7
- Postigo do Carvão Porto · Arroz de marisco, octopus or grilled sardines if they have them, and vinho verde Day 7
- Triana Market Seville · Toast with tomato and olive oil, and café con leche Day 8
- Las Golondrinas Seville · Puntas de solomillo ("dame una"), tortillitas de camarones and a caña Day 8
- Bodega Santa Cruz "Las Columnas" Seville · Serranito and a glass of manzanilla Day 8
- El Rinconcillo Seville · Ham croquetas, Iberian pork cheeks, spinach with chickpeas and a glass of oloroso Day 8
- Churrería Los Especiales Seville · Churros with thick hot chocolate and café con leche Day 9
- San Leandro Convent Seville · A box of yemas de San Leandro Day 9
- Casa Morales Seville · A glass of manzanilla and a small tapa Day 9
- La Terraza de EME Seville · A cocktail or a beer Day 9
- Bar Santa Ana Seville · Vermouth on tap, aged cheese and jamón ibérico Day 9
- Casa Ruperto Seville · Fried quail ("pajaritos") and a caña Day 9
- Casa Cuesta Seville · Tortillitas de camarones, baby squid in garlic and a glass of manzanilla Day 9
- Lunch on our own in Córdoba Córdoba · Salmorejo cordobés, flamenquín or rabo de toro Day 10
- Espacio Eslava Seville · Ribs with honey, pork cheeks in red wine and the "cigarro para Bécquer" for dessert Day 10
- Bar Siempre Igual or a café on Plaza de España Ronda · Café con leche and a bocadillo or tortilla Day 11
- Bodegas Castañeda Granada · House vermouth; if you're lucky, meatballs in sauce or rabo de toro as the tapa Day 11
- A tea house on Calderería Nueva Granada · Moorish mint tea and Arab pastries Day 11
- El Huerto de Juan Ranas Granada · Tinto de verano or a pint, with whatever tapa they bring Day 11
- A bar on Plaza Nueva Granada · Toast with tomato and olive oil, café con leche and fresh orange juice Day 12
- La Riviera Granada · Eggplant with honey, fava beans with Trevélez ham and, if they have it, tortilla del Sacromonte Day 12
- Pastelería López-Mezquita Granada · Piononos Day 12
- Mirador de Morayma Granada · Fava beans with ham to start, cordero a la granadina or plato alpujarreño, a pionono for dessert and Contraviesa wine Day 12
- Café de Oriente Madrid · Toast with tomato, café con leche and fresh-squeezed orange juice Day 13
- Restaurante Botín Madrid · Cochinillo asado Day 13
- Bodega de la Ardosa Madrid · Vermouth on tap and salmorejo Day 13
- Chocolatería San Ginés Madrid · Churros or porras with chocolate and café con leche Day 14
- La Bola Madrid · The full cocido madrileño in its three courses: broth, chickpeas with vegetables, and the meats Day 14
- La Dolores Madrid · Vermouth on tap and boquerones en vinagre Day 14
- Alto Bardero Madrid · Tortilla pincho, ham croquetas and txakoli Day 14
- Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio Madrid · Huevos rotos with ham and the house red wine Day 14
- Cochinillo asado in Segovia Segovia · Cochinillo asado or, if there is none, lechazo Day 15
- La Casa del Abuelo Madrid · Gambas al ajillo, pan con tomate and a cold beer Day 15
- Café de Oriente Madrid · Toast with tomato and ham, café con leche and fresh-squeezed orange juice Day 16
- El Paeller Valencià Valencia · A rice dish other than paella valenciana: arròs del senyoret, arroz a banda or arroz negre Day 16
- Horchatería Santa Catalina Valencia · Cold horchata natural and two fartons for dunking Day 16
- Bar Pilar (La Pilareta) Valencia · Steamed clochinas, esgarraet and a caña Day 16
- Central Market of Valencia Valencia · A slice of jamón ibérico, some olives and a fresh-squeezed orange juice Day 17
- La Pepica Valencia · Steamed clochinas or gambas al ajillo while the paella valenciana with chicken, rabbit, green beans and garrofó cooks; at the end, ask for the socarrat Day 17
- La Pilareta Valencia · Steamed clochinas again, esgarraet with toasted bread and the house white wine Day 17
- Café Madrid Valencia · A pitcher of agua de Valencia: cava, orange juice, gin and vodka Day 17
- Bodega La Palma Barcelona · Pan con tomate, house croquetas, canelones and a glass of the house wine Day 18
- El Xampanyet Barcelona · House cava (about €2 a glass), boquerones en vinagre and patatas bravas Day 18
- Cal Pep Barcelona · Fresh anchovies, steamed clams, grilled baby shrimp, rossejat de fideos, croquetas and whatever the cook recommends that day Day 18
- Bars on the Plaça del Sol Gràcia · Pa amb tomàquet, cafè amb llet and a butter croissant Day 19
- Cervecería Catalana Eixample · Pa amb tomàquet, patatas bravas with both sauces, jamón ibérico croquetas, shrimp montaditos, pimientos de Padrón and the house Catalan rosé Day 19
- El Xampanyet El Born · House cava, anchovies and boquerones en vinagre Day 19
- Bar del Pla El Born · Croquetas, a duck foie montadito and grilled vegetables, with a glass of natural wine Day 19
- Quimet i Quimet Poble-sec · Smoked oyster montadito with cream cheese and honey, boquerones with capers, razor clams in olive oil, Iberian pork cheek montadito and a vermouth Day 20
- El Quatre Gats Gothic Quarter · Two cortados or cafè amb llet and a crema catalana to share Day 20
- 7 Portes El Born · Pa amb tomàquet, escalivada, grilled shrimp, arròs negre for two and crema catalana, with a white from Penedès or cava Day 20
- El Xampanyet El Born · House cava and anchovies Day 20
Tours we took
- Lisboa Card, 48 hours Official website · Visit Lisboa · 48 hours from first use Day 2 See the Lisboa CardWeb oficial
- Mesa de Frades: dinner with live fado Official website · Mesa de Frades · About 2 and a half hours Day 3
- Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais: full-day tour in Spanish GetYourGuide · Tugatrips Tours · About 10 hours Day 4
- Guided visit to the Palácio da Bolsa Official website · 30 minutes Day 5 See the visitWeb oficial
- Graham's: guided tour and Premium tasting with food pairings Official website · Graham's · 2 hours Day 6 See the tourWeb oficial
- Porto: intimate fado in a historic tavern GetYourGuide · Koutipons Companhia · 1 hour Day 6
- From Porto: Douro Valley with boat ride, wine tasting and lunch GetYourGuide · CMTOUR · About 10 hours Day 7
- Setas de Sevilla: timed entry ticket GetYourGuide · Setas de Sevilla · About a 40-minute visit Day 8 See the ticketGetYourGuide
- Casa del Flamenco, one-hour show TenemosPlan · 1 hour Day 8
- Seville: Cathedral, Giralda and Alcázar with priority access GetYourGuide · Crown Tours · 2.5 hours Day 9 See the tourGetYourGuide
- From Seville: Córdoba and the Mosque-Cathedral with a guide GetYourGuide · Granavision · About 10 hours Day 10 See the tourGetYourGuide
- Granada: Alhambra and Nasrid Palaces tour with tickets GetYourGuide · Special Plans · About 3 hours Day 12
- Flamenco zambra at La Comino Booked directly with the venue · 1 hour Day 12
- Royal Palace of Madrid: guided tour in Spanish Patrimonio Nacional (via Fever) · An hour and a half Day 14 See ticketsPatrimonio Nacional
- Madrid: Segovia and Toledo Tour, Alcazar, and Cathedral GetYourGuide · IBE Tours · 12 hours Day 15 See the tourGetYourGuide
- Sagrada Família: guided tour in Spanish with tower climb Official website · About 2 hours and 15 minutes with the tower Day 20 See ticketsWeb oficial
If you’re planning this trip
Tips
- Book early anything with a timed entry: the Alhambra, Sagrada Família, Pena, Livraria Lello, Casa Batlló. In May they sell out weeks in advance.
- Between cities, the train wins: Lisbon–Porto, Granada–Madrid, Madrid–Valencia and Valencia–Barcelona were comfortable, on-time rides. We only flew Porto–Seville.
- Carry a few euros in cash for coffee, tips and markets. We left with a cash fund split between two wallets and the hotel safe.
- An eSIM with data for both of you saves you at stations, with Uber and with maps. We bought ours before leaving Houston.
Do
- Stay close to the historic center in every city. Walking back to the hotel after dinner is part of the trip.
- Leave a free afternoon every so often. Over 21 days, the fatigue catches up with you.
- Check closing days before you plan each day: many museums and bars close on Mondays or Sundays.
Don’t
- Don't try to see Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais on your own by public transit in a single day. There isn't enough time.
- Don't buy tickets from resellers at the door: use the official website or your tour.
- Don't fill every night with reservations. Places like Cal Pep, in Barcelona, only work at the bar and without a reservation.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need for Portugal and Spain?
We did 21 days for 7 cities and 4 day trips. With two weeks, the easiest things to cut are Valencia and a day trip or two; Lisbon, Seville, Granada and Barcelona are the heart of the route.
Is it better to get around by train or by car?
By train between the big cities, and by car only for the Seville–Ronda–Setenil–Granada stretch, where the train doesn't reach the white villages.
What order works best for the route?
West to east: Lisbon, Porto, then a flight to Seville and from there Granada, Madrid, Valencia and Barcelona. That way you never backtrack, and the flight home leaves from Barcelona.
How much does a trip like this cost?
It depends a lot on lodging and tours. We will publish our budget by category soon.