Seville · Spain
Patio de Banderas
A practical guide to the Patio de Banderas in Seville: the orange-tree square next to the Alcázar with the best view of the Giralda, how much time to give it, where to stand for the photo and what's nearby.
Worth it as a three-minute stop on the way to the Alcázar or the Cathedral. It's small and there's nothing to visit inside, but the Giralda framed by orange trees is one of the best views downtown.
The Patio de Banderas is a rectangular square with orange trees next to the Real Alcázar, ringed by 18th-century houses and with the Giralda rising above. It was a parade ground for centuries and today it’s a public square where people exit the Alcázar. Most visitors walk right past it, even though it’s a few steps from the Cathedral entrance.
Our experience
We walked in on Monday at 12:30, three minutes for the photo of the Giralda above the orange trees, on our way to the meeting point for our tour on Plaza del Triunfo. We were coming from a manzanilla at Casa Morales, and at 12:40 we had to be by the Immaculate Conception monument. The courtyard didn’t need more time and it was on the way. Next came the Real Alcázar and the Cathedral with a guide, as we tell in our day 9.
A bit of history
Beneath the paving lie some 700 square meters of remains running from the 9th century BC to the 13th century AD: a Roman house with frescoes from between 60 and 30 BC, Visigothic layers and the palace that Caliph Abd al-Rahman III had built here around 913, the seed of the entire Alcázar. Under the Almohads it was a parade ground. After the conquest of 1248, and especially under Pedro I, it became the formal entrance to the Mudéjar palace.
In the 18th century Philip V turned the surrounding buildings into an armory. Between 1816 and 1857 benches and a fountain were added and trees were planted, later replaced with orange trees. For the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition the courtyard was redone. Excavations from 2008 to 2012 uncovered the full sequence, and since 2010 a covered crypt has protected the most important remains.
What to see, in order
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The entrance arch
You enter from Plaza del Triunfo under the wall. Look at the masonry of the arch: remnants of the Almohad wall survive.
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The Giralda between orange trees
The two rows of orange trees frame the tower from almost anywhere in the courtyard. Stand in the middle and turn slowly.
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The houses along the long side
18th-century houses where military officers and their families lived. They're still private homes.
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Plaza del Triunfo
On the way out, the 1918 monument to the Immaculate Conception, surrounded by Murillo, Martínez Montañés, Miguel Cid and Juan de Pineda. It's the meeting point for many tours.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- There's good shade under the orange trees even at midday.
- There are no benches, fountain or restrooms. Go before you come.
- If someone offers to take your photo with the Giralda, say "No, gracias": afterward they ask for €10.
- If you have a few extra minutes, Plaza del Cabildo, with its curved arcade and frescoes, is hidden behind an arch on Avenida de la Constitución, across from the Cathedral.
Do
- For the photo, stand between the two rows of orange trees with the tower at the end.
- Come back at night if you're staying nearby: the Giralda lit up and the courtyard empty.
- Watch your bag coming in and going out: it's where the Cathedral, the Alcázar and the Archivo de Indias meet.
Don’t
- Don't expect a long visit: it's a square you pass through.
- Don't pay attention to the "authentic flamenco" promoters on the corner with Plaza del Triunfo.
- Don't photograph into the houses: people live there.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Patio de Banderas?
The former parade ground of the Real Alcázar, now a public square with orange trees and the Giralda above. It's where you exit the Alcázar.
Do you have to pay to get in?
No. Access is free.
Can you see the ruins underneath?
They're in a covered crypt that can only be visited on a separate Alcázar tour. Standard Cathedral and Alcázar tours don't include it.
How much time should I give it?
Three minutes for the photo, ten if you want to sit in the shade on Plaza del Triunfo afterward.