Seville · Spain
El Rinconcillo
A practical guide to El Rinconcillo, the oldest bar in Seville (1670): what to order, what it costs, why the bar beats the dining room, how the chalk tab works and when to go.
Worth it, for the room and the stews. Its fame runs a little ahead of the kitchen: order meat and stews, not fish, and eat at the bar.
El Rinconcillo is the oldest bar in Seville. It opened in 1670 on Calle Gerona and has changed very little inside: tiles from floor to ceiling, hams hanging from the wood, dusty bottles on the shelves and every customer’s tab written in chalk on the bar. The cooking is classic Andalusian, with stews that come from the Mozarabic tradition.
Our experience
We had dinner here on Sunday, May 17, at 21:35, after coming down from Las Setas after sunset. At the bar we ordered ham croquetas, Iberian pork cheek, spinach with chickpeas and a glass of oloroso.
We put it last because of the distance, a five-minute walk from the viewpoint, and because we confirmed before the trip that on Sundays it’s open until 1:00. It was the last stop of a day that started at 4:30 in Porto, with flamenco and a sunset in between. You can see the full order in our first day in Seville.
A bit of history
El Rinconcillo opened in 1670: it’s older than the historic coffee houses of London and Paris. In 1858 the De Rueda family bought it, and they have run it ever since, now in the fifth generation.
The chalk tab is older than printed receipts, and the family keeps it on purpose. The wood of the counter is marked by a century and a half of chalk. The tiles are mostly from the 19th century, with some from the 18th, and the wooden ceiling is the original.
What to see, in order
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The bar and the chalk tab
The bartender chalks everything you order on the wood in front of you, then counts the marks at the end and tells you the total. Don't wipe it.
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The tiles and the ceiling
Hand-painted Triana tiles, mostly 19th century, cover the walls. The wooden ceiling is original, dark from centuries of smoke, with hams hanging from it.
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Espinacas con garbanzos
The most-ordered dish in the house: spinach and chickpeas stewed with paprika, cumin, garlic, vinegar and fried bread, in a clay dish. Its roots are Mozarabic.
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Carrillada ibérica
Iberian pork cheek braised in red wine until it falls apart under the fork. It goes very well with a glass of oloroso.
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Croquetas de jamón
Homemade, with béchamel and ham. Ordered by the piece; six for two people is a good amount.
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The sherries
The sherry list is the house's strongest suit. If you've never tried an aged oloroso, this is the place.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Order like this: "Hola, buenas noches. Ponme unas espinacas con garbanzos y la carrillada ibérica, por favor." For wine: "Una copa de oloroso."
- When you ask for the check ("La cuenta, cuando puedas"), the bartender adds up the chalk marks out loud. Cards are accepted.
- The waiters are fast and curt, like at every Seville bar. It isn't rudeness.
- Watch your bag at the door when people crowd outside.
Do
- Eat at the bar, on the right as you walk in. That's where the chalk is and what you came to see.
- Order stews and meat; according to reviews, that's where the kitchen is strongest.
- Pair it with Las Setas: it's a five-minute walk from the viewpoint to the bar.
Don’t
- Don't let them move you to the back dining room if what you want is the bar experience.
- Don't order paella or modern fish dishes. The pavía de bacalao gets mixed reviews.
- Don't come looking for a quiet dinner: at peak time it's loud and cramped.
Frequently asked questions
Is El Rinconcillo the oldest bar in Seville?
Yes. It opened in 1670 and has appeared in the city's records ever since. It's among the oldest working bars in Spain.
What should I order at El Rinconcillo?
Spinach with chickpeas, Iberian pork cheek and ham croquetas, with a glass of oloroso.
How much does dinner cost?
Between €20 and €25 per person for a tapas dinner with one drink.
Is it open on Sundays?
Yes. It's open every day from 13:00 to 1:00, with no afternoon break, though it occasionally closes briefly; check ahead if you're going at an odd hour.
Was the tapa invented here?
That's one of the stories: the slice of bread that covered the glass to keep the flies out. Its age makes it possible, but it can't be proven, and the custom probably arose in several places in Andalusia at once.