Madrid · Spain
Prado Museum
A practical guide to the Prado Museum: which works to see in two and a half hours, in what order, how to buy a timed ticket, whether the free entry is worth it and the rules on backpacks and photos.
One of the three great painting museums in the world. With a timed ticket and a fixed route, in two and a half hours you see the essentials without wearing yourself out.
The Museo Nacional del Prado holds the collection of paintings the kings of Spain gathered over four centuries. It isn’t a balanced national museum; it’s the personal collection of a line of kings, and that’s why it has more and better Velázquez, Goya and Bosch than any other museum. About 1,300 works are on display in the main building.
Our experience
We went in on a Saturday at 15:15 with general tickets bought on the official site in April. The time wasn’t an accident: after the midday peak and before the free entry starts at 18:00. We took a taxi from Ópera after cocido at La Bola and an hour of rest.
We had two and a half hours and a fixed route: El Greco on the ground floor, Las Meninas and the Velázquez rooms, Goya with The Third of May and the Black Paintings, and Bosch. We left out the temporary exhibitions on purpose. We went without a backpack, because the ticket confirmation asks for that to get through quickly.
A bit of history
The building is older than the museum. In 1785 Charles III commissioned Juan de Villanueva to build a natural history cabinet on the new Paseo del Prado. The French invasion of 1808 stopped construction; the building was used as barracks, and the lead was stripped from the roof to make bullets.
After Ferdinand VII returned, his wife Maria Isabel of Braganza convinced him to open the royal collection to the public. The museum opened on November 19, 1819, with 311 paintings, all by Spanish painters. In 2007 Rafael Moneo added the extension next to the Jerónimos cloister, and in 2021 the Paseo del Prado and the Retiro were added to the World Heritage list.
How it fits into your day
The Prado pairs well with Retiro Park, five minutes from the south exit, and with a vermouth stop in the Barrio de las Letras. See our day 14 in Madrid.
What to see, in order
-
The Nobleman with his Hand on his Chest
El Greco, around 1580, on the ground floor. A Toledo nobleman dressed in black with his hand on his chest, as if taking an oath. Look at the long fingers against the black doublet.
-
Las Meninas
Velázquez, 1656, in room 12. The Infanta Margarita with her ladies-in-waiting, the painter himself at his canvas and, in the back, the king and queen reflected in a mirror. Move slowly to the right and watch the perspective change.
-
The Surrender of Breda
Velázquez, 1635, the one with the lances. The Velázquez rooms also hold The Forge of Vulcan and the equestrian portraits.
-
The Family of Charles IV and the majas
Goya paints the royal family without flattering them. Nearby, The Nude Maja and The Clothed Maja, the same model in two versions.
-
The Third of May 1808
Goya, 1814. The man in the white shirt with his arms spread before a faceless firing squad. It's considered the origin of modern antiwar painting.
-
The Black Paintings
The fourteen murals Goya painted on the walls of his house, the Quinta del Sordo, transferred to canvas in 1874. Saturn Devouring His Son is here. The room is dark: let your eyes adjust.
-
The Garden of Earthly Delights
Bosch, around 1490–1510. Paradise, sin and hell in a triptych that Philip II bought in 1591. Get close: every centimeter has a scene.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Photos are banned in all the galleries, allowed only in the lobby. They really do enforce it.
- Bags over 40 × 40 × 20 cm aren't allowed in. Backpacks go to the cloakroom, which is free; better not to bring one.
- Download the official Prado app beforehand: it has free audio for many works, and the museum's wifi is spotty.
- Save the temporary exhibitions for another visit and focus on the permanent collection. The café isn't worth it.
Do
- Buy only at museodelprado.es. There are active clone sites selling the €15 ticket for more than double.
- Follow a fixed route; the museum has no marked path and it's easy to get lost.
- Leaving by the south end, Retiro Park is five minutes away.
Don’t
- Don't wait in the free-entry line if you have little time in Madrid: it can run over an hour, and you have to get there before 18:00.
- Don't hire "guides" on the Paseo del Prado: the museum's guides work inside and wear ID.
- Don't sign clipboard petitions near the line: it's the distraction for robbing you.
Frequently asked questions
How much time do you need to see the Prado?
For Velázquez, Goya and Bosch, 90 minutes. For a route that includes El Greco, two and a half hours. To see it calmly, four hours or more.
Is the free entry worth it?
It works for a quick pass, but the line can top an hour and it's packed inside. If you only have one day, the €15 timed ticket is the better deal.
Can you take photos in the Prado?
Not in the galleries. Only in the entrance lobby and outside.
Can you go in with a backpack?
Only small bags, up to 40 × 40 × 20 cm. Backpacks go to the free cloakroom.
Do you need a guided tour?
It isn't necessary if you bring a route and the official app. The museum also hands out a free leaflet with one-, two- and three-hour routes.