Valencia · Spain
Horchatería Santa Catalina
A practical guide to Horchatería Santa Catalina in Valencia: what to order, how much horchata with fartons costs, when to go to get a table and what to know about tiger nut horchata.
Yes, it's worth it for a first horchata, for the tiles and nearly two centuries in the same spot. You pay more than in Alboraya; if you become a fan, have your next one there.
Horchatería Santa Catalina has been serving tiger nut horchata on the same corner of Valencia since 1830. It sits at the foot of the bell tower of the church of Santa Catalina, two minutes from the cathedral, and inside it’s covered in tiles from floor to ceiling. It’s the best-known horchatería in the city, and also the most touristy.
Our experience
We arrived at 17:30 on Monday, May 25, coming out of the cathedral and the Miguelete, before our walk through El Carmen. We ordered the classic: cold natural horchata and two fartons for dipping. We chose it for a first horchata in a beautiful setting, knowing it costs almost half as much in Alboraya. Our original plan suggested also trying El Siglo, across the square, to compare; when we checked, we found it closed in 2014. It’s in our arrival day in Valencia.
What we read before going: service varies a lot depending on how busy it is, and a minority of Valencians find its horchata watery or too sweet compared with Alboraya’s. For a first time, you’ll barely notice the difference.
A bit of history
It was founded by Vicente Gargallo, who came from Manises, the ceramics town. He covered every wall with tile panels from his hometown, which also worked as advertising. It’s still in the family, now in its fourth generation. For much of the 20th century there were two horchaterías facing each other on this square: Santa Catalina at number 6 and El Siglo, from 1836, at number 11, and Valencians split into camps.
Legend says King Jaume I tasted the drink in Alboraya after 1238 and said “Açò no és llet, açò és or, xata,” this isn’t milk, it’s gold, dear, and that’s supposedly where the name comes from. Fartons are much newer: the Polo family invented them in Alboraya in 1960, long and narrow so they could be dipped into the glass.
What to see, in order
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Cold natural horchata
The classic, made from tiger nuts, in a tall glass. Ask for "natural": the bottled one at the counter is pasteurized and not the same thing.
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Fartons
The long glazed bun made for dipping. Dip the tip in the horchata, count to three and pull it out before it falls apart.
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Horchata granizada
Half frozen, like a slushie. In May or June heat it's more refreshing than the liquid version.
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Hot chocolate with churros
Thick chocolate for dipping churros. Many reviews rank it above this shop's horchata.
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The Manises tiles
Floor to ceiling, in blue, white, yellow and green. Also notice the grandfather clock, the marble tables and the pressed-tin ceiling.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Valencian horchata is made from tiger nuts, not rice like Mexican horchata or corn or almonds like other Latin American versions. Expect a different flavor.
- Sometimes you pay at the table and sometimes at the counter on the way out: watch what the tables next to you do.
- Open every day from 8:15 to 21:30, with no midday break. Cards and cash accepted.
- If you want it quieter, sit toward the back: tour groups arrive all at once and the noise goes up.
Do
- Order in a single sentence: "Dos horchatas naturales frías y dos fartons, por favor."
- Photograph the grandfather clock and the tiles before you sit down.
- If you want to compare, try another horchata at Daniel, in the Mercado de Colón, or in Alboraya, where the tiger nuts come from.
Don’t
- Don't look for Horchatería El Siglo, the one across the square: it closed on December 31, 2014.
- Don't buy the "authentic horchata" packets at souvenir stands: horchata isn't made from powder.
- Don't order the bottled horchata or anything labeled "americano" on the menu.
Frequently asked questions
How much is an horchata at Santa Catalina?
Between €5 and €5.50 a glass, plus €1.50–2 for two fartons. In Alboraya, a similar horchata costs €2.50–3.
Do you need a reservation?
You can't make one: it's walk-in only. Weekday mid-mornings or 17:00 to 18:30 are the easiest times to get a table.
What is tiger nut horchata?
A cold drink made from tiger nuts, a small tuber that Muslim farmers brought to the Valencian farmland. They're soaked, ground with water and sugar, and strained. The protected-origin kind comes from 16 towns in l'Horta Nord, with Alboraya at the center.
Is Horchatería El Siglo still open?
No. It closed on December 31, 2014, after a change in Spain's rental law. Santa Catalina is now the only century-old horchatería on that square.