Sintra · Portugal
Romaria de Baco
A practical guide to Romaria de Baco in Sintra: the upstairs Portuguese restaurant across from São Martinho, what to order, what it costs, whether to book and how it fits into a tour's free time.
Yes, it's worth it for lunch in Sintra without falling for the tourist menus on the square. It's home-style Portuguese cooking in a small dining room; get there early, because at peak hours the kitchen slows down.
Romaria de Baco is a Portuguese restaurant with about 30 seats on the first floor of an old building in the center of Sintra, across from the Igreja de São Martinho. The name puts together Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, and the romaria, the Portuguese pilgrimage festival where food and wine are never missing. The cooking is traditional, with plenty of olive oil, garlic and cilantro, and the list of wines from small producers is more serious than the size of the room would suggest.
Our experience
It was our lunch in Sintra, during the free time the tour gave us between Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira. The van dropped us in the center at 11:30, and at 13:05 we were walking into the Regaleira. We ordered the dish of the day.
We picked it because it was a few minutes’ walk from the center, because its reviews have stayed good for years, and because we wanted to avoid the restaurants on Praça da República, with people at the door pushing tourist menus. All the times are in our day in Sintra.
A bit of history
The restaurant has been at this address since around 2011. It opened when many restaurants in central Sintra were switching to tourist menus, and it went the other way: a Portuguese menu, generous portions and a port list that’s unusual for such a small place.
The church across the street, São Martinho, dates from the 12th century and was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. And salt cod, even though Sintra looks toward the mountains, is as essential here as in the rest of the country: in Portugal they say there are 365 ways to cook it, one for every day of the year.
What to see, in order
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The dish of the day
Ask "Qual é o prato do dia?" and then "Quanto custa?". At lunch it's usually meat or fish with rice and vegetables. It's what we ordered.
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Camarão ao alho
Whole shrimp in olive oil, garlic, chili and cilantro, served in a small clay dish. The bread comes separately for soaking up the oil, which is the whole point. It's the most praised dish in the reviews.
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Bacalhau à brás
Shredded salt cod with onion, matchstick potatoes and beaten egg, finished with parsley and black olives. It's the test of any Portuguese restaurant, and here it's consistent.
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Barriga de porco preto
Grilled Iberian black pork belly, fatty with a bit of char. It goes well with a glass of Douro red.
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Morangos com vinho do Porto
Strawberries macerated in port with house-made cream ice cream. It's the signature dessert and the one that comes up most in the reviews.
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Ports by the glass
For a room of about 30 seats, the list of wines from small Portuguese producers is serious. Ask "Que portos têm a copo?" and compare a tawny with an LBV.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- The bread, olives or pâté that show up at the table without being ordered are charged separately, €1.50 to €3 each. If you don't want them, say "Não, obrigado" when they arrive.
- With two or three people working, at peak hours it can be 15–20 minutes between courses. If you have a tour pickup time, tell them when you arrive how much time you have.
- Glasses are fairly priced; bottles cost 2.5 to 3 times retail. For two, order by the glass.
- If they offer you a ginjinha at the end, ask: if they say "oferecida," it's free; if not, it may show up on the bill for €2–3.
Do
- If you book, leave a phone number that takes international calls: they call to confirm.
- Ask the price of the dish of the day before ordering it. It's the custom all over Portugal.
- Leave a 5–10% tip in cash if the service was good; service isn't included.
Don’t
- Don't get pulled in by the people with menus at the doors of the restaurants on Praça da República: €25–35 tourist menus with weak food.
- Don't order the plain grilled fish: according to reviews, it sometimes comes out underseasoned.
- Don't come in a group of more than four expecting space: the tables are very close together.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a reservation at Romaria de Baco?
It's the smart move in high season. You book through TheFork or by phone at least four hours ahead, and the restaurant confirms with a call. Without a booking, try when lunch opens or after 14:00.
How much does it cost to eat there?
Between €15 and €25 per person at lunch, with the dish of the day or a main, a glass of wine and dessert. Dinner goes up to €30–35.
What should you order?
The dish of the day if you want something quick and cheap. Otherwise, the camarão ao alho to share, the bacalhau à brás or the black pork belly, and the strawberries with port for dessert.
Is a Sintra tour's free time enough?
With 90 free minutes, yes, if you get there early: at that hour the food comes out in about 20 minutes and you have time to get back to the van.
What's nearby if it's full?
Tascantiga, two minutes away, with Portuguese small plates, or Apeadeiro, three minutes away, with simple, hearty Portuguese cooking.