Madrid · Spain
Bodega de la Ardosa
A practical guide to Bodega de la Ardosa in Malasaña: what to order, what the draft vermouth costs, when you can get in, how the bar works and the history of this 1892 tavern.
Yes, it's worth it: an 1892 tavern that still works as one. Order vermouth, salmorejo and tortilla, and don't expect attentive service or a seat.
Bodega de la Ardosa is a narrow tavern in Malasaña that opened in 1892 and has barely changed since the early 20th century: a wooden bar, dusty bottles on the shelves, barrels for tables and a tiled facade. It’s one of the few 19th-century taverns still open in central Madrid, and the place you go for a draft vermouth.
Our experience
We stopped at 16:02 on Friday, May 22, at the end of our walk along Gran Vía and through Malasaña. We ordered draft vermouth and salmorejo, standing among the barrels. We put it there for the timing: according to our notes, at 16:00 on a Friday the lunch crowd is gone and the evening crowd hasn’t arrived. It also left us within walking distance of the Temple of Debod for sunset. It’s in our day 13.
A bit of history
In 1892 Rafael Fernández, a wine merchant with vineyards in La Ardosa, near Consuegra (Toledo), opened a series of taverns under that name. At one point he had more than twenty in Madrid, and the one on Calle de Colón is the oldest of those left. The facade tiles and sign were added between 1917 and 1930.
In 1970 it was bought by Gregorio Monje and his wife, Concha Marfil, who created the caramelized-onion tortilla that now draws half the city. The Monje family still runs it. In the 1980s it was one of the first bars in Madrid to pour Guinness and the first in Spain to serve Pilsner Urquell.
Good to know
It’s both a neighborhood institution and a stop on tourist lists, and both are true. On weekday mid-afternoons the neighbors still come; on weekends at midday you can barely get in. Negative reviews mention brusque service, a packed room and rising prices.
What to see, in order
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Draft vermouth
From the barrel, over ice, with an orange slice and an olive. It's a blend made in Reus for this bar alone.
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Salmorejo
A cold tomato-and-bread cream from Córdoba, topped with hard-boiled egg and chopped ham. In May the tomatoes are at their best.
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Caramelized-onion tortilla
Concha Marfil's 1970 recipe: onion cooked almost to jam and a soft center, the way Madrid likes it. The local press ranks it among the city's top three.
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The tiled facade
The tiles and the engraved-glass sign went up between 1917 and 1930. They're the work of ceramicist Alfonso Romero Mesa, who also did Chocolatería San Ginés.
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The duck under the bar
To reach the barrels at the back you have to duck under a hinged section of the wooden bar.
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The Pilsner Urquell diploma
On the back wall, the "License Number 1 in Spain" certificate for this Czech beer, which is poured here in three stages.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- The chalkboard behind the bar lists the day's dishes, usually the freshest. Order from there, not from the laminated English menu.
- You pay a little more at the barrels than at the bar. If you want chalkboard prices, order at the bar before moving.
- Bring €10–20 in cash: for a €2.50 vermouth they may tell you there's a card minimum.
- Portions are tapa-sized. Order a bit more than you think.
Do
- Order in two sentences: "dos vermuts de grifo" and "un salmorejo y una tortilla para compartir".
- Check the address: the original is at Calle de Colón 13. La Ardosa on Santa Engracia belongs to another branch of the family.
- If it's full, Casa Camacho, from 1928, is five minutes away.
Don’t
- Don't order hot dishes at peak times: the kitchen is small and they take a while.
- Don't come for the coffee or dessert: this is a vermouth-and-beer house.
- Don't expect the waiter to chat. Service is fast and curt, Madrid style.
Frequently asked questions
What should you order at Bodega de la Ardosa?
Draft vermouth, salmorejo and the potato tortilla with caramelized onion. If you like beer, a Pilsner Urquell poured in three stages.
Can you make a reservation?
No. It's a bar-and-barrels tavern with no reservations. On a weekday mid-afternoon you'll find space quickly.
How much is a vermouth at La Ardosa?
€2.50. Vermouth, salmorejo and tortilla for two run about €18–22.
What are the hours?
Open every day, roughly 9:00 to 2:00, and the kitchen doesn't close for siesta.