Day 3 ·
Belém, the castle and a night of fado
Lisbon · Portugal · 3 min read
Our longest day in Lisbon: natas in Belém, the Jerónimos, the river walk to Belém Tower, bacalhau in Mouraria, São Jorge Castle, three viewpoints and dinner with fado in Alfama.
- 1
Pastéis de Belém
The original nata bakery, since 1837. We got there before 10:00 and sat inside: the rooms are huge and it's faster than the takeout line.
Our guide Yes, it's worth it for the history and the setting next to the Jerónimos, and the nata is very good. Don't expect a revelation: in blind tastings, other Lisbon bakeries now beat it. Read the full guide - 2
Jerónimos Monastery
The church first, free, with the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Camões. Then the cloister, included with the Lisboa Card. We gave it 105 minutes.
Our guide It's the most important building in Lisbon and worth every minute, but only if you get there at opening. At midday in May, the cloister line can run over an hour in the sun. Read the full guide - 3
Padrão dos Descobrimentos
Along the riverside promenade, past the red brick lighthouse. The viewpoint at the top is free with the Lisboa Card, and from up there you can see the 50-meter compass rose on the ground.
Our guide Worth going up if you have the Lisboa Card, which covers it fully: from the top the compass rose reads like a map. Without the card, the exterior and the rose, which are free, tell you almost everything. Read the full guide - 4
Belém Tower
From what we checked before going, it was still closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding, with reopening planned for the end of June 2026. We kept it as a short stop outside, from the promenade.
Our guide From the outside it is the image of Lisbon and worth the stop; the inside is optional. In May 2026 it was still closed and under scaffolding, so check before you go. Read the full guide - 5
Zé da Mouraria
Uber from Belém, 20 to 35 minutes in midday traffic. About 16 tables, no reservations and cash only. It's at Rua João do Outeiro 24, not on Rua da Mouraria.
Our guide Yes, it's worth it if you come prepared: cash, patience and a single plate for two. It's honest, generous tasca food; the service is fast and curt, and sometimes the cod comes out salty. Read the full guide - 6
São Jorge Castle
From Mouraria it's 700 meters of steep climbing; bus 737 from Praça da Figueira is free with the Lisboa Card. Eighty minutes for the walls, the towers and the peacocks.
Our guide With the Lisboa Card it's a clear yes: the best view of Lisbon and walls you can walk. Without the card, €17 is steep if you already have free viewpoints in your plan. Read the full guide - 7
Miradouro da Graça
The castle in the foreground, the Baixa below and the 25 de Abril bridge in the distance. Pine trees, shade and a kiosk. Free.
Our guide Yes, it's worth it: it's free, it has shade and it gives you the best photo of the castle with the city behind it. Come mid-afternoon to get a table at the kiosk; at sunset it fills up. Read the full guide - 8
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
The highest viewpoint in Lisbon and the only one where you can see the castle, both bridges and the Cristo Rei at once. Afterward, an Uber to the hotel to rest.
- 9
Miradouro das Portas do Sol
A glass of vinho verde at the kiosk while the sun goes down over Alfama. The statue of St. Vincent with his ravens is the symbol of the city.
- 10
Mesa de Frades
Dinner with live fado in an old chapel in Alfama. The show starts at 9:30 PM sharp; you need to arrive by 9:20.
This was our most packed day in Lisbon: about 10 kilometers, five big monuments, three viewpoints and fado until midnight. We planned it west to east, from Belém to Alfama, so we never had to retrace our steps.
Why we planned it this way
Belém goes first because the groups start arriving at 11:00. At 9:40 we were at Pastéis de Belém and at 10:05 at the Jerónimos Monastery, inside the quiet morning window. From there we walked west along the river: the lighthouse, the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and Belém Tower. According to our research the tower was still under renovation, so the stop was short and those minutes went to the hardest transfer of the day, the Uber to Mouraria.
Zé da Mouraria only opens at midday and doesn’t take reservations. Arriving at 1:45 PM, when the first wave clears out, was the best bet. From there São Jorge Castle is right above, and by 3:15 the afternoon light is already hitting the walls.
From the castle we strung together two viewpoints to the north, Graça and Senhora do Monte, and went back to the hotel to rest. The evening was for Alfama: sunset at Portas do Sol and fado at Mesa de Frades.
What to know before you go
With the Lisboa Card this day comes out almost free: the Jerónimos cloister, the Padrão, the castle, the train and the bus. For us it was the day the card paid for itself.
Belém is pickpocket territory, especially in the nata line and in front of the south portal of the Jerónimos. And if it rains, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is open on Tuesdays and is 15 minutes from the castle by Uber.
What we booked and tasted
Mesa de Frades: dinner with live fado
- Dinner
- Drinks included
- Live fado in an old chapel in Alfama
We wanted real fado in Alfama, not a group show. About €70 per person, booked directly with the house. Heads up: cancellation is free only until one day before.
Pastéis de Belém
Order Pastéis de nata with cinnamon and powdered sugar, and a bica
It's the original 1837 recipe, and before 10:00 the tour buses haven't arrived yet. About €1.50 per nata.
Zé da Mouraria
Order Bacalhau à minhota with house wine
It's the house dish and the portions are huge: one plate is enough for two. Arriving at 1:45 PM, after the first wave, gives you a better shot at a table.
Portas do Sol kiosk
Order Vinho verde by the glass or a Sagres
A free viewpoint, a cheap glass and the best light of the day over Alfama. About €5–8 per person.
Mesa de Frades
Order House menu with petiscos, drinks included
We chose a small fado house, in a chapel, where the fadistas can sing a few steps from the tables, instead of a big show for tourists.
Cais do Sodré Belém
Cascais line, free with the Lisboa Card. From the hotel in Chiado to Cais do Sodré it's 10 minutes on foot, downhill on Rua do Alecrim and past Rua Nova do Carvalho, the pink street.
Belém Mouraria
Uber for about €10–15. It's the tightest transfer of the day: don't linger at the Tower.
Senhora do Monte Chiado
Uber for about €5–7 to rest and change before the evening.
What we learned
Tips
- The Jerónimos and Belém Tower close on Mondays, which is why Belém landed on a Tuesday.
- The Lisboa Card isn't a fast-track pass: it gets you in free, but you wait in the same entry line. What really saves you the line at the Jerónimos is arriving early on a weekday.
- The castle's camera obscura only runs from 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM. If you arrive in the afternoon, like we did, don't plan on it.
- Zé da Mouraria is cash only. If it's full, O Velho Eurico is two minutes away.
Do
- Go into the Jerónimos church first and then the cloister.
- Take bus 737 up to the castle if you're coming from a big lunch.
- For the fado, wear smart casual clothes: no shorts or flip-flops.
Don’t
- Don't go to the MAAT on a Tuesday: it's closed that day.
- Don't buy tickets from anyone in the square at the Jerónimos or near the Tower.
- Don't stay at the fado until one in the morning if you have an early tour the next day. We set our limit at midnight.