Madrid · Spain
Taberna La Bola
A practical guide to Taberna La Bola in Madrid: how the clay-pot cocido works, what to order and what to skip, what it costs, how to book and why you should bring cash.
Worth it for the cocido in its own clay pot and the timeless dining room. Order just the à la carte cocido: everything else is where the bill climbs.
Taberna La Bola has served cocido madrileño since 1870 on Calle de la Bola, two minutes from the Teatro Real. Each diner gets their own clay pot, cooked for about four hours over holm-oak charcoal, and the cocido comes in the traditional three vuelcos. The Verdasco family, descendants of the founder, runs it, and the dining room of red walls and mirrors has barely changed.
Our experience
We had lunch here on Saturday, May 23, at 13:00, between Almudena Cathedral and the Prado Museum. We booked directly with the restaurant, weeks in advance, and ordered the full cocido madrileño, in its three vuelcos. We chose that time because the cocido is at its best and the seating is calmer than the 14:00 one. After a meal like that, we left an hour to rest at the hotel before the Prado. You can see the whole day in our day 14.
A bit of history
There was a small wine-and-spirits shop on the site from 1802. In 1870 an Asturian woman, Cándida Santos, bought it and decided to cook: cocido, in individual pots over charcoal. By around 1880 she was serving three cocidos at three prices, and the Royal Palace sent for sealed pots for Infanta Isabel and for Alfonso XII. Today it’s run by Mara Verdasco, Cándida’s great-granddaughter and the fourth generation of the family.
Cocido descends from adafina, the Sephardic stew of chickpeas and meat left cooking for the Sabbath. After the expulsion of 1492 pork was added, and in Madrid, capital of the empire, it settled into the dish we know. In 2026 cocido madrileño was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural, a protected cultural asset.
Good to know
Price is the most repeated criticism: at a neighborhood tavern cocido costs €18–22. Here you pay for the method and the history. To keep the bill in check, order just the cocido, a half bottle of the house wine, one dessert to share and coffee.
What to see, in order
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The first vuelco
The waiter opens the clay pot at the table and pours the broth over thin noodles. Take it slowly: it's the foundation for everything else.
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The second vuelco
Chickpeas, cabbage, potato and carrot. A drizzle of olive oil and salt, if you like.
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The third vuelco
The meats, on a separate platter: beef shank, chicken, chorizo, morcilla and pork belly.
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Rice pudding
The dessert reviews praise most. One to share is enough.
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The dining room
Red walls, wood, old mirrors and waiters in white jackets. The basement restroom still has its 1920s tile.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Bring cash. For years it was cash only, and recent reviews disagree. Ask when you confirm: "¿Aceptan tarjeta o solo efectivo?". About €120 in cash covers two people with room to spare.
- Ask for the Spanish menu and say "cocido madrileño a la carta". The English menu highlights the set menus, which cost more.
- Bread arrives on its own and is charged. If you don't want it: "Sin pan, gracias".
- Confirm your reservation by phone the morning of.
Do
- Order a half bottle of the house red: it goes further than two glasses, and cocido doesn't call for an expensive wine.
- Follow the order of the vuelcos: broth, chickpeas, meats.
- If you're not very hungry, share one cocido between two. In May it's heavy.
Don’t
- Don't order starters: the cocido is huge.
- Don't get talked into the tasting menu if all you want is the cocido.
- Don't order the seafood: it's not what they do.
Frequently asked questions
How much is the cocido at La Bola?
€26 à la carte in 2026. Set menus with cocido run from €39.90 to €47.
Do you need a reservation at La Bola?
Yes, at least one or two weeks ahead, and more in high season.
Does La Bola take cards?
For years it was cash only, and recent reviews don't agree. Bring cash and ask when you book.
What are La Bola's hours?
Sunday to Wednesday, lunch only, 13:00 to 16:00. Thursday to Saturday, 12:00 to 20:30 straight through, plus a dinner seating from 20:30 to 23:00.
What are the three vuelcos of cocido?
The way it's served in three courses: first the broth with noodles, then the chickpeas with vegetables and finally the meats.