Porto · Portugal
Capela das Almas
A practical guide to the Capela das Almas in Porto: where to take the tile photo from, when the sun hits it, which scenes to look for and the traps on Rua de Santa Catarina.
Worth it as a 10 to 15 minute stop for the facade. The interior is plain; what you come to see is outside.
The Capela das Almas, also called the Capela de Santa Catarina, is a small late-18th-century chapel covered on the outside with 15,947 blue-and-white tiles. They tell the life of Saint Francis of Assisi and that of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. It’s one of the best photo stops in Porto, and it costs nothing.
Our experience
We stopped by at 10:30 on Friday, walking from Mercado do Bolhão, and stayed about 15 minutes. We put it at that hour because between 10 and 11 the sun hits the facade head-on and the sidewalk across the street isn’t crowded yet. We crossed to the other side for the full shot and moved on to Conga for a bifana. The whole route is in our day 6.
A bit of history
In the early 18th century a wooden chapel dedicated to Saint Catherine stood here. At the end of that century the Brotherhood of Souls and the Wounds of Saint Francis rebuilt it in stone, and the name comes from that brotherhood. In 1801 it was enlarged.
For more than a century it was a plain white building. In 1929 the brotherhood commissioned the painter Eduardo Leite to cover every exterior wall with tiles, handmade at the Viúva Lamego factory in Lisbon. Leite deliberately designed them in the 18th-century style, with large cobalt-blue scenes and Baroque frames. That’s why they look older than they are.
Don’t confuse him with Jorge Colaço, who made the tiles of the Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, 250 meters away, and of São Bento station.
What to see, in order
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The south facade
The one facing Rua de Santa Catarina. Cross to the opposite sidewalk, a little right of center, and the whole building fits in the frame.
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The corner with Fernandes Tomás
The two tiled walls meet at a sharp edge and you see both at once. It's the best angle.
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The death of Saint Francis
The main scene of the Saint Francis of Assisi cycle, with the saint lying down and attended by his brothers.
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The stigmata of Saint Francis
An angel above and the saint kneeling on a rock, with rays of light painted in fine cobalt-blue strokes.
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The martyrdom of Saint Catherine
The main scene of the Saint Catherine of Alexandria cycle: the spiked wheel that, according to the legend, broke when it touched her. The crown recalls her royal birth.
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The borders
Between the panels there are borders of flowers, vines, cherubs and geometric patterns. They deserve a close look.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Walk all the way around the building: each wall has its own best hour of light.
- After the wide shot, step in and photograph the scenes one by one; they often come out better than the wide view.
- It's a working chapel with Mass every day. If you go in during the service, sit quietly at the back or step out.
- Free public restrooms at Mercado do Bolhão, 200 meters away.
Do
- Wear your backpack in front: Rua de Santa Catarina is the worst street for pickpockets in the center, and in front of the chapel everyone is looking up.
- Cover your shoulders if you're going in.
- Go early, while the crowd headed for Lello is still lined up over there.
Don’t
- Don't accept the tripod photographers on the corner who take a "sample" photo and then charge €10–20. Your phone is enough.
- Don't pay anyone who offers to "explain the tiles": the chapel has no official guides.
- Don't sit down at the cafés with sidewalk menus across the street; for good food, Conga and the Bolhão are a few minutes away.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to enter the Capela das Almas?
Nothing. Entry is free and the facade is visible from the street at any hour.
How many tiles does it have?
15,947 tiles covering about 360 square meters of wall.
Are the tiles old?
They date from 1929, though they imitate the 18th-century style. Until that year the chapel was simply whitewashed.
Is it worth going inside?
For a couple of minutes. It's a plain neoclassical nave with a painting of the Ascension on the high altar. What matters is outside.