Lisbon · Portugal
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau
A practical guide to Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Rua Augusta: the codfish cake stuffed with Serra da Estrela cheese, what it costs, what to order and what not to, and where to eat the traditional one.
Worth it as a ten-minute stop out of curiosity, not as a lesson in salt cod. The cake is well made, but the cheese filling is a 2015 invention and the prices are tourist-street prices.
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau is a shop on Rua Augusta with one star product: a fried codfish cake with a core of Serra da Estrela cheese that melts when you bite in. It opened in 2015 and is now a chain of 12 shops in Portugal, but the Rua Augusta one is the original.
Our experience
We made it a passing stop because it sits right on the way: heading down from the Santa Justa viewpoint toward the Rua Augusta Arch. We ordered the cheese cake, which is the reason to go, and carried on to the arch. Before the trip we read the reviews, which are sharply divided, and so we kept it as what it is: a ten-minute snack and not lunch, which we had standing up at Nova Pombalina, a few blocks further down. The full route is in our arrival in Lisbon.
A bit of history
Salt cod is the most Portuguese ingredient there is. Portuguese fishermen reached the Newfoundland banks in the 15th century, and salt made it possible to bring the cod home; today Portugal eats about 20% of the world’s salt cod, almost all of it from Norway and Iceland. The codfish cake, or bolinho, with potato, onion, parsley and egg, has been made in homes for centuries.
The cheese filling is something else. It was created by the O Valor do Tempo group, which opened this shop on May 4, 2015, with the idea of joining two traditions: salt cod and Serra da Estrela, a sheep’s milk cheese with protected origin status since 1996. For the shop it’s a tribute; for many Lisboetas, marketing. Both are true.
What to see, in order
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The Serra da Estrela cheese cake
What we came to try: shredded salt cod with potato, fried, with a core of sheep's milk cheese that melts. It's the specialty and the reason to go.
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The traditional cake
No cheese, the way it's made in Portuguese homes. It's cheaper and it's the version to try if you're interested in the real dish.
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The oval marble counter
The heart of the shop, with pastry cases and tiled walls. Even if the prices don't win you over, it's a pretty spot for a photo.
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The ceiling and tiles
Look up: a painted ceiling and azulejos on the walls. The decor is part of what they sell.
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The port bar
Tawny and ruby by the 5 cl glass. The pairing with the salty cake works, but it's where the bill climbs.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- Ask the price before ordering: "Quanto custa o pastel com queijo?". Not every menu shows it clearly.
- If they offer the port combo and you don't want it, just say "Só o pastel, obrigado".
- Ask "Está fresco?": if it's worth waiting two minutes for the next batch, they'll tell you.
- Check the bill before paying; sometimes a small service charge shows up.
Do
- Order one per person, eat it at the counter and keep walking to the arch.
- Carry some cash as well as a card: they take both, but there are reviews of card readers being "down" at peak times.
- Try the traditional cake elsewhere: A Tendinha do Rossio, 5 minutes away, sells salgados for €1.50–3.
Don’t
- Don't order the tasting boards with three or more items and two wines: that's where the bill reaches €25–40 per person.
- Don't come looking for fado: the live music is irregular. For that, a fado house in Alfama.
- Don't mix up the shop: the original is at Rua Augusta 106-108. The chain has another by the castle, and there are copycats on the same street.
- If you're celiac, skip it: the cake isn't gluten-free.
Frequently asked questions
How much is the pastel de bacalhau with cheese?
Between €3.50 and €6 depending on the filling in 2026. With a glass of port, around €10–13.
Is the codfish cake with cheese traditional?
No. This shop invented it in 2015. The traditional Portuguese codfish cake has no cheese.
Is it worth it or a tourist trap?
Reviews are sharply divided. The cake is well made and fresh; the price is almost double a neighborhood tasca's. As a short curiosity stop, yes; as a meal, no.
Do you need to book?
No. The counter is walk-in and service is quick; in about ten minutes you eat and move on.