Lisbon · Portugal
Rossio Square
A practical guide to Rossio Square in Lisbon: the wave pavement, the Pedro IV column, the National Theatre, cafés where you won't overpay and the scams worth knowing about before you arrive.
Yes, it's worth it, and it asks no more than ten minutes. It's the square all of Lisbon walks through, not a quiet place: come for the pavement and the history, and watch your bag.
Rossio Square, officially Praça D. Pedro IV, has been Lisbon’s central square since at least the 13th century. It’s a rectangle of about 180 by 80 meters in the Baixa, at the foot of the Bairro Alto and castle hills, paved with the wave pattern that Portugal later took from Copacabana to Macau. In the center stands the Pedro IV column and to the north, the National Theater.
Our experience
We crossed it mid-morning on our first day, right after the shot at A Ginjinha, which sits at the south corner. We gave it about ten minutes: the column, the fountains and the pavement, and left by the southwest corner to climb to the Carmo Convent. We didn’t plan it as a destination but as a crossing, which is what it is for Lisboetas. The route is in our first day in Lisbon.
A bit of history
Rossio means common land. Since the Middle Ages it was the place for processions, bullfights and, for three centuries, autos-da-fé: in 1536 the Inquisition moved into the Estaus Palace at the north end. The 1755 earthquake brought down nearly every building, and the square was rebuilt with the uniform facades of the Pombaline style.
The Inquisition palace burned in 1836, and Queen Maria II had the theater built in its place, opening in 1846. The pavement came in 1848: 8,712 square meters laid by hand, the first large square in Portugal paved in calçada. The column dates from 1870, and the statue is Pedro IV, who in 1826 was king of Portugal and emperor of Brazil at the same time for about two months.
What to see, in order
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The south fountain
As you come in from Largo de São Domingos. There are two French-cast bronze fountains, one on each side of the column.
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The wave pavement
White limestone and black basalt in the mar largo pattern, laid by hand in 1848. Stare at it for a while and it seems to move; that's why it was called the rolling square.
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The Pedro IV column
About 23 meters, from 1870. At the base, four figures: Prudence, Justice, Fortitude and Temperance. On top, the king who was also Brazil's first emperor.
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The Teatro Nacional D. Maria II
At the north end, from 1846, with six Ionic columns and Gil Vicente atop the pediment. It stands where the Inquisition's palace stood; a small plaque on the left flank marks it.
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Café Nicola
On the west side, numbers 24 and 25. The facade and back room are 1930s Art Deco. Order at the counter to see the inside without paying terrace prices.
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Rossio Station
Ninety seconds away at the southwest corner: an 1890 Neo-Manueline facade with two horseshoe-arched doorways. Worth a peek even if you're not catching a train.
Tips we wish we’d known
Tips
- The best photo of the pavement is from the east side, with São Jorge Castle in the background on a clear day.
- The pavement is very slippery when wet. Shoes with grip and no running.
- There's a small public restroom near the column; if you have something at Café Nicola's counter, you can use theirs.
- To continue to the Carmo Convent, leave by the southwest corner and walk up the Calçada do Carmo.
Do
- Keep your phone and wallet in front pockets and your bag closed: police rank Rossio among the three worst pickpocket zones in Lisbon.
- Check the printed menu inside before sitting at a café on the edge of the square: the pictured dishes can cost quite a bit more.
- Take a look at the Igreja de São Domingos and the 1506 memorial, 30 seconds from the south end.
Don’t
- Don't buy anything from the men offering drugs: what they sell is bay leaves, oregano or flour.
- Don't sign clipboard petitions or accept the sprig of rosemary "as a gift": afterward they ask for €5–10.
- Don't let anyone shine your shoes without agreeing the full price in writing; the "it was per shoe" story ends at €15–20.
- If someone asks whether a dropped wallet is yours, don't reach for yours to check. Keep walking.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Rossio also called Praça D. Pedro IV?
That's been its official name since 1874, after the king on the central column. Everyone still calls it Rossio, which means common land.
Is Rossio Square safe?
Yes, by day and night in the square itself, but there are many pickpockets and fake-drug sellers. Front pockets and a closed bag.
How much time should you give it?
In 10 minutes you cross it seeing the column, the fountains and the theater. With half an hour you add Praça da Figueira and the station.
Is it true the statue was meant for Maximilian of Mexico?
No. It's a legend historians have ruled out: the statue bears Pedro IV's coat of arms and holds the 1826 Constitutional Charter.